Around Milan: discovering the Città Studi – Susa district
Città Studi Città Studi - Susa is one of Milan's most vibrant and intellectually stimulating neighborhoods. Here, academic life seamlessly blends with everyday living, narrating the city's history and future amid verdant parks, bustling cultural spots, and intriguing architecture.
In the northeast of Milan, bordered by the districts of Porta Venezia, Loreto, Ortica, and Lambrate, Città Studi - Susa stands out as a neighborhood pulsing with youthful vitality and historical richness, where students and long-time residents live side by side.
The area's name reflects its strong academic focus, due to the presence of the Politecnico di Milano, celebrated for its engineering and architecture programs, along with other notable institutions. These centers of learning have not only educated generations of students but also significantly shaped the identity of a neighborhood that evolved from an agricultural village to an important cultural hub.
Città Studi - Susa is also recognized for its quality of life, boasting a variety of services and expansive green spaces. Among these, Viale Argonne is a model of urban renewal, with its modern park offering leisure and recreational opportunities for all ages
History and fun facts
The Città Studi - Susa district was historically a vast expanse of agricultural land, dotted with cultivated fields, farmhouses, and abundant water sources. Its plentiful water supply earned it the nickname "Acquabella" and made it an ideal location for laundry activities.
The arrival of the railway and the establishment of the first factories in the second half of the 19th century initiated a significant transformation, as the neighborhood adapted to new industrial and residential demands. Yet, the most significant shift occurred between 1915 and 1927 with the creation of a major university campus designed to bring together the city's scattered higher education institutions into one prestigious academic hub
Thus emerged a cultural stronghold, fostering the talents of notable individuals including Adriano Olivetti, Gianfranco Ferrè, Renzo Piano, Gae Aulenti, and Gio Ponti. Today, Città Studi - Susa continues to stand out as a leading center of learning, hosting the prestigious Politecnico di Milano, the scientific departments of the Università Statale, and renowned medical institutions such as the National Cancer Institute and the Carlo Besta Neurological Institute, confirming the neighborhood’s position as a pivotal center of knowledge and innovation.
What to see
The exploration of Città Studi - Susa begins at Piazza Leonardo da Vinci, a lively, circular garden space that’s the focal point of the neighborhood. Overlooked by the grand Rectorate of the Politecnico, the square frequently hosts events that attract both residents and visitors. Close by, the Casa dello Studente is the first student residence built by the Politecnico in 1934, and the Botanical Garden is a charming green oasis that hosts a diverse collection of native and exotic plants.
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From the square, the surrounding streets showcase a captivating range of architectural styles. Via Colombo, for instance, is home to the intriguing Soviet-style building known as the “Kremlin,” which houses the Faculty of Chemical and Biomedical Research. Not far off, Casa Corbellini-Wassermann, a 1930s creation by Piero Portaluppi and now a prestigious art gallery, is a beautiful example of Italian Rationalism.
Other highlights of Città Studi - Susa are the residential complex designed by Carlo Erba, notable for its distinctive “S” shape, and the Villaggio del Sarto, a group of Liberty-style houses with gardens built in the 1920s for professors at the Politecnico. Additionally, on Via Balzaretti, the vibrant headquarters of Toilet Paper Magazine has become one of Milan’s top Intagrammable spots.
PaWhile strolling through the neighborhood, one can admire some beautiful mosaics on the facade of the Church of Santa Croce and the concrete minimalism of the Church of San Luca Evangelista, designed in the 1950s by Gio Ponti, who also curated its furnishings. Lastly, the WOW Spazio Fumetto museum, located in the historic Motta panettone factory, offers a fascinating dive into the world of illustration and animated images
Take note of these addresses
Bar Basso, the legendary spot where the Negroni Sbagliato was born in the 1960s, is a celebrated landmark in the area. For cocktail enthusiasts, Baobar and Milord are great choices, while Palinurobar provides a chill atmosphere perfect for unwinding. At Tone, aperitifs are paired with bread baked in a traditional Georgian oven, and the Fruit Salad kiosk in Piazzale Susa serves up reasonably priced drinks in a lively, casual setting.
When it comes to dining in Città Studi - Susa, the Milanese dishes at Trattoria La Piola and Locanda del Menarost are worth trying, along with the surprise menus at Superficiale, set in a former 1960s adult cinema. And for those craving Asian cuisine, Poporoya, one of the first Japanese restaurants to open in Italy, is a must-visit.
For remote workers, the area offers a range of appealing spaces, such as Avanzi, Santeria Paladini and 21 House of Stories. Starting the day with breakfast at Pasticceria Scaringi is a local favorite, while MAG's ice cream and Pan's matcha cheesecake are perfect for a sweet treat. Additionally, Valeria and Brunella’s kiosk in Piazza Fusina provides street food around the clock
The neighborhood offers a variety of leisure activities, including the Romano pool with its expansive outdoor swimming area and the recreational and sports facilities at Zero Gravity, which boasts the largest trampoline park in Italy. There’s also, the historic Plinius cinema, known for hosting Totò's first appearance in northern Italy
Finally, the Thursday morning market on Via Ampere offers a perfect opportunity to experience the local atmosphere, while fashion enthusiasts will find Sunnei, the Italian brand known for its modern and creative style, not to be missed.
Transportation
The Città Studi - Susa district benefits from excellent connectivity within Milan through its tram and metro networks. Piola station on the M2 metro line is just a few stops from both Central Station and Garibaldi Station, while tram line 19 provides easy access to the historic center.
The recent opening of the Argonne and Susa stations on the new M4 metro line has further enhanced transportation options, offering a quick and convenient link to Milan Linate Airport.
Furthermore, Città Studi - Susa's strategic location facilitates access to the Tangenziale Est, streamlining connections to major highways.
The real estate market in Milan’s Città Studi - Susa district
The real estate market in Città Studi - Susa is notably dynamic, featuring a diverse range of residential options. These include historic buildings, charming villas, traditional Milanese ringhiera houses, and sleek modern constructions.
A key driver of this vibrancy is the presence of university faculties, which, along with a robust array of services and excellent transport links, makes the area highly desirable and drives up prices per square meter.
Small properties, in particular, are in high demand among investors, who benefit from a substantial pool of potential tenants, predominantly consisting of students and young professionals.